Step 1 – Loctite the M3 collar screws into the flybar seesaw holder

  • Open bag 500HH2 that has the main rotor housing.

  • The main rotor housing is pre-assembled from the factory, but only for shipping purposes. You need to remove the M3 collar screws, apply the T43 (Blue) solution and re-screw it back together.


Step 2 – Mixing arms to rotor housing

  • There is no loctite on the metal linkage balls in the metal SF mixing arm. Again, it came pre-assembled from the factory for shipping purposes only.
  • Unscrew those balls. Apply some of the T43 loctite and tighten. My mixing arm is metal. If yours is plastic, use CA.

  • Put T43 on the socket button head screw and screw the metal SF mixing arm into the main rotor housing.


Step 3 – Linkage Rods and Ball Links

  • There are two linkage rods to assemble.
  • Need to screw ball links onto the linkage rod screw. The holes should be 29mm apart.
  • I did not use any glues here. (Was I suppose to?). These linkage rods look like they can be adjusted, so I’m not glueing them.

  • On the Ball Link, there is a letter A on one side and the number 12 on the other side. When screwing the Ball Links, you need to finish with the As on opposite sides.

Step 4 – Flybar Control Arm and Rod

  • Take apart the flybar control rod & flybar control rod assembly. It was pre-assembled at the factory for shipping only.
  • We need to slide the linkage rods from Step 3 onto the ball on the flybar control rod.
  • When you snap a link on, the “A” is always away from the ball.
  • Once you’ve snapped it on, check for a nice fit and smooth movement.

Now assemble the Flybar cage:

  • ensure the M3 set screw on both flybar control arms is facing up.
  • ensure that the A on the linkage rods are facing opposite directions
  • put locktite on the four screws holding the flybar control arm to the flybar control rod.

  • Make sure the two black halves are not twisted.


Step 5 – Add Flybar Rod to Cage

  • In bag 500HT3A, you’ll find the flybar.

  • Remove one of the M3 Set screws in the flybar control arm. Loosen the other screw. This allows the flybar to slide in and out.
  • Slide the flybar in until you can see the flat part through the screw hole.

  • Tighten both screws just enough to allow the slide bar to slide back and fourth a millimeter or two. If you cannot slide the flybar, then you’ve tightened it too much.
  • Now center the flybar by measuring the distance to the ends. Mine was 128mm. Your’s might be different. (the photo below shows 135mm, but this was due to the me adjusting for the camera).

  • Loctite the screw you removed earlier and screw it in.
  • Remove the other screw, loctite it and screw it in.

At this point, we have completed step 1 & 2, page 5 in the manual.


Step 6 – Swash Plate and Wash Out Base Assembly

Get bags: 500HH11, 500HZ2 and 500HH5:

Open bag 500HH5:

  • Apply loctite to all the linkage balls

Open bag 500 HH11

  • Apply loctite to the linkage balls, the socket screws.
  • Instead of putting loctite on the socket button head screw, put the loctite in the hole in the washout base. This prevent loctite from going into the bearing & collar.


Step 7 – Linkage Rods, Swash Plate, Washout Base & Main Shaft

Open bag 500HZ2:

  • Using the 34mm rods and the larger ball links, create two linkage rods. Note the position of the “A”. You need to put a 1/2 twist on it. NOTE that on other helicopters, you use the 31mm rods. Verify with the instruction manual.

  • Insert the Main Shaft into the Main Rotor housing.
  • Secure the Main Shaft using the Socket Collar screw. This is also known as the “Jesus Bolt”.  You will be undoing this later to level the swash plate, so don’t overtighten and don’t loctite it.

  • Slide the Washout base up the Main Shaft. Ensure the “B” on the radius arm is facing inwards when the radius arm is folded down. Line it up with the pins.
  • Slide the swash plate up the Main Shaft.

  • Using the ball joint plyers, snap the radius arms down onto the ball joints on the swash plate.

  • Attach the two 34mm linkage rods created above.

  • Now attached the linkage rods from the cage down onto the swash plate.

This ends page 6 of the instruction book.


Step 8 – Spindle and Thrust Bearings

Starting on page 7 of the instructions. This is a BIG section, so make sure you set aside lots of time.

NOTE: At this point, you absolutely must have TWO 2.5mm screw drivers or Allen keys to tighten both socket screws at the same time. If you don’t go to the store or borrow one.

Get the following bags out:

  • The bags have the thrust bearings and spacers, as shown below. The shimms are for after market rotor blades. Keep these if you ever purhcase non-Align blades.

Clean Spindle:

  • Take screws out of the spindle. There is residual oil in the screw holes of the spindle left over from the manufacturing.
  • Using rubbing alcohol and kleenex or a cloth, clean the oil out of the screw holes. Also, wipe down the screws to remove any residual oil.

Thrust Bearings:

  • The thrust bearings consists of two outer rings (races) and an inner ring with little balls. The two outer rings have different inner diameters (or ID).
  • Put the larger diameter ring on the spindle with the ridge facing the end of the spindle.
  • Put the Align Oneway Bearing Grease on.
  • Put the ball bearing ring on next. One side of the bearing ring is open and the other side is closed. Put the open face of the bearing facing toward the center of the spindle.
  • Put the smaller diameter ring on the spindle with the ridge facing inwards.

  • Put lots of grease, but be careful not to get any grease inside the screw hole that you cleaned out earlier.
  • For the second grease bearing set, grease them up, but do not put it on the spinde.

Get all the pieces organized as shown in the figure below. Once we apply the loctite, we need to move quickly.

Feathering Shaft:

  • slide the feathering shaft into the feathering shaft sleeve of the main rotor housing.

Spacers, Dampeners and Blade Grips:

  • put a little bit of grease on the metal spindle so the dampeners and spacers slide. Not too much, you don’t want to get it in the screw hole.
  • Slide one spacer washer on.
  • Put in the socket screw and fasten to one end of the spindle. Tighten it enough to hold the assembly together.
  • Slide the spindle through the Main Rotor Holder (Blade Grip).
  • Slide on the copper space, then the grey (70 degree for beginners) damper rubber ring.
  • Push the spindle through the feathering shaft through the main rotor housing.
  • Put loctite on the second spindle socket screw and tighten it.
  • Undo the first spindle socket screw and put loctite on it and rescrew. Don’t be sloppy with loctite, otherwise it will gum up the thrust bearings.

  • Make sure everything moves freely.

Step 9 – Blade Grip Linkage, Head Stopper and Paddles

Blade Grip Linkage Rods and Head Stopper:

  • Create the two small linkage rods using the 13.5mm rod and the small ball links. Make sure both A’s face the same side.

  • Snap these two linkage rods from the ball on the mixer arm to the ball on the blade grip.
  • loctite and screw in the metal head stopper to the top of the main rotor housing.

Paddles:

  • Remove both M3 set screws from each paddle.

  • Screw on paddles so they are equal distance from each other.

  • Ensure paddles are parallel or level with the flybar cage.
  • Loctite the four M3 set screws.

At this point, we are done page 8.